
Castles, ruins and a harbour that has been in use for two and a half thousand years.
The landmarks that tell the story of the island's capital, nearly all within walking distance.
The Knights of Saint John fortress guarding the entrance to the harbour.
The excavated marketplace of the ancient city, open in the middle of town.
A restored second-century amphitheatre once used for music and assembly.
A reconstructed Roman villa with surviving mosaic floors and courtyards.
The vast old tree facing the castle, tied by legend to Hippocrates himself.
The island's capital wears its history in the open, most of it walkable in a day.
Kos Town is unusual among Greek island capitals in how much ancient ground sits inside the modern street plan. A 1933 earthquake levelled much of the town, and the rebuilding uncovered the Roman and Hellenistic layers beneath it.
The result is a centre where an excavated agora, a Roman odeon and a Knights' castle sit within a few minutes' walk of the cafés, rather than out on a separate archaeological site.
Why so much ancient ground sits inside a modern street plan.
In 1933 an earthquake destroyed much of Kos Town. The Italian administration then governing the Dodecanese used the rebuilding as an opportunity to excavate, and the ancient and Roman city that had been buried under the medieval town was uncovered and left open.
That is why the archaeology here is not fenced off on a hillside somewhere. The agora, the odeon, the Roman baths and the colonnaded road sit between the cafés and apartment blocks, and people walk past them on the way to work.
The whole circuit — castle, agora, odeon, western archaeological zone, Casa Romana and the Archaeological Museum on Eleftherias Square — can be covered on foot in a single unhurried day. Start early or go late in the afternoon: there is very little shade over the excavated ground, and midday in July is punishing.
There is almost no shade over the open excavations in the middle of the day.
The main sites sit within a compact circuit around the harbour and centre.
Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and medieval remains within a few streets.
The castle and harbour photograph best in the hour before sunset.